Guide to Baby Guppies and Their Growth Rates

Say you bought a trio or a pair of guppies in the hope of breeding them for fun. Assuming that the males and females purchased are completely mature when they are brought home, they should be ready to start pumping the babies in no time flat! Under optimum conditions, guppies can produce a reproduction of 40 to 60 babies (also known as fry) every 28 to 32 days.

They may not do it in the first month if they are not quite ready, but after 45 days you can expect to start seeing baby fish in the " Aquarium.

Guppies are live fish, which means that mothers give birth to fish that are already hatched and able to fend for themselves. They have fins and are hungry from the start. Guppy fry will start looking for food in a few minutes. If they are adequately fed, they can ripen completely in 2 to 3 months.

At about half an inch, they were born at a decent size. Within a month, they can easily reach an inch, but will likely be thin and lack color.

At the age of 30 or 40 days, this species of fish is able to mate and the males must be separated from the females if selected Raising is desired. It is expected that fully formed and mature fish will be expected within 2 to 4 months. These fish will have beautiful fluid fins and full muscle mass! To ensure that your baby guppies grow at a normal rate, feed them a variety of foods several times a day and change the aquarium water on a weekly basis.



Source by Johnathan Thomas

How to Breed Diamond Tetra Fish

The Diamond Tetra Fish, better known to aquarium lovers as the Moenkhausia pittieri, is a member of the family Characidae and was originally found living in the Venezuelan Lake Valencia and a few select Venezuelan rivers . Male species of the fish may grow between two to 12 inches, but females are usually smaller. Though not a bright colored fish, the Diamond Tetra is a silver color with greenish-colored highlights, and it stands out due to its beautiful reflective scales. Aquarium Environment

In terms of aquarium

Environment, the Moenkhausia pittieri should be part of a school with a minimum of six fish. These should include others of their own species, and fish of other species. Within this school, one male will always be the dominant one. This male tolerates the others, but is always in control. Diamond Tetras have an ideal pH range of 6.6 to 7.0 and temperature preference of 74-82 degrees Fahrenheit (26-28 degrees Celsius), and if kept outside this range, might take on a different appearance. Also, these fishes have lots of plants in their aquarium, and are not very picky when it comes to feeding time. Moenkhaussia pittieri will love you for offering living food, but can eat anything from flakes to frozen food. Breeding Diamond Tetra Fish

The most difficult process of Breeding Diamond Tetra fish is getting the right pairs together. Mature males have longer than females, especially when it comes to dorsal fines. Though females will most likely be smaller than the males, females that are ready for breeding. After selection of a pair of Diamond Tetras is complete, they should be separated and conditioned with good food. During the conditioning phase, they should be fed their preferred live food and also some frozen food. This should last for around 10 days.

It does not have a large tank, but needs to include lots of plants, especially those with dense leaves. The Diamond Tetras is the only one in the world that has made it possible. Soft water should always be used over hard water. Gravel is not required, but some netting should be included towards the bottom of the tank. It should be far enough to give the breeding pair space to swim. The holes in the netting also need to be large enough for the eggs to fall through to the bottom of the tank.

After the allotted time for conditioning has expired, the selected pair should be placed in the spawning tank in The evening when it is dark, and again, no lights should be used in the vicinity of the tank. In the event that the pair of Diamond Tetras is compatible, spawning might take place immediately upon the fish being placed in the spawning tank or could not take place until a day or two afterwards. Sometimes the lighting is in the environment. Though the male may spend most of his time following the female, when the time comes for the spawning, the female releases the sperm. The eggs must then become fertilized, in which case it is helpful to have soft water in the tank. The netting is very important here, because Moenkhaussia pittieri tends to eat their eggs, and in order to prevent this, the eggs must fall through the netting, separating the eggs from their parents.

Though the eggs may be seen within 36 hours, it can take up a week before the spawning Baby fish are capable of swimming around their spawning tank. The fry will be very hungry, but in an aquarium with lots of plants, will find things to eat in their first few days. After that, fry food is acceptable, and once they are large enough, appropriately sized live food is good for them. Keeping the spawning tank clean is very important. Because they grow so quickly during their first few weeks, baby Diamond Tetras soon look like the adults, though smaller. Their coloring will be at first, with their breathtaking shimmering scales being fully developed around the time the fish are 9 months old.

Breeding Diamond Tetras Can Be A Challenge The Breeding Diamond Tetras Can Be A Challenge , Mainly because it is possible to find a compatible pair of male and female fish. It is important to keep the adult Diamond Tetra environment healthy so as not to adversely impact their well-being and ability to spawn at a later time. Likewise, the spawning should be kept clean and the temperature, pH, and softness should be checked regularly. Enough time and resources should be spent on the conditioning portion of the breeding process, as it is of great importance. Keep different types of food, including fry food, on hand at all times, even if you are doubtful that spawning could occur. The Diamond Tetra is known for.

The Diamond Tetra is known for its brilliant,



Source by Leslie Bogaerts

How to Care For Your Pool Cue

Maintenant que vous avez acheté votre propre queue de billard, et nous l'espérons suivi quelques-uns des conseils des articles précédents avant de le faire, vous allez vouloir prendre soin de votre investissement. Un bon repère est relativement durable et indulgent, mais tous les repères exigent des soins et un peu d'entretien.

CASES.

Vous allez avoir besoin d'un cas afin de transporter votre nouvelle cue à la salle de billard. Je pense que ce serait évident, mais pourtant je vois constamment des gens qui arrivent en portant leur nouvelle queue dans leur main. Allez maintenant, vous venez de dépenser votre argent et a pris le temps de choisir une queue de billard que vous aimez, mais vous ne pouvez pas le printemps pour une sorte de cas? Les étuis de base sont en vinyle ou en douceur. Ceux-ci protègeront votre signal contre les gouttes mineures et les dings, mais pas beaucoup d'autre. Je recommande vivement les cas durs parce qu'ils offrent tellement de protection. Certains cas sont testés en conduisant une voiture sur eux sans endommager la queue à l'intérieur! Votre cue de piscine peut prendre beaucoup de dégâts dans votre voiture, dans votre maison, et même à votre salle de billard afin de le protéger du mieux que vous pouvez.

Alors que nous sommes sur le sujet de transporter votre cue – Ne jamais laisser votre queue de billard dans votre voiture, surtout dans le coffre! Le bois est très sensible aux variations de température et à l'humidité, évitez ainsi de stocker votre bâton de billard dans votre véhicule à tout prix. Le bois va se dilater et se contracter, ce qui pourrait entraîner des déformations, des joints lâches et des points craqués.

LA POINTE. La pointe de votre queue de billard (la partie qui frappe la balle) est la partie la plus importante du bâton. Vous pouvez tirer sur la piscine avec une branche d'arbre ou une poignée de balai – ou le bâton le plus déformé dans la maison, si la pointe est solide et correctement façonné, vous pouvez jouer avec elle! Sans blague! Les embouts vissés sont un non-non sérieux, alors n'allez même pas là-bas. Les pointes "réelles" sont collées et sont disponibles dans une variété de dureté. Les bouts doux tiennent la craie mieux et sont meilleurs pour appliquer "l'anglais" mais ils s'usent et se multiplient rapidement. Les extrémités extrêmement dur durent éternellement mais ont besoin de re-chalking constant. Certains disent qu'ils font pour un tir plus précis ainsi. Une pointe de dureté moyenne devrait être fine pour la plupart des joueurs. La pointe doit pouvoir tenir la craie, de sorte que les frottements périodiques sont nécessaires. La rondeur de la pointe doit être maintenue avec un shaper. La plupart des joueurs comparent la rondeur à celle d'un nickel, bien que certains préfèrent l'étanchéité d'une «courbe de dix cents». Façonner et éraflage trop souvent fera de votre pointe de disparaître rapidement, de sorte que la forme et l'éraflure lorsque nécessaire. Les côtés de la pointe doivent être même avec la virole, pas de champignons.

L'AXE. Lorsque vous avez d'abord acheté votre cue pool, l'arbre était agréable et lisse, et a glissé à travers votre main pont jamais-si-facilement. Ça n'a pas duré longtemps, n'est-ce pas? La sueur, les huiles et la saleté de votre main va gommer sur votre arbre très rapidement, ce qui rend collant et pas si lisse. Comment pouvez-vous empêcher cela, et comment le nettoyer? Tout d'abord, vous ne pouvez pas faire beaucoup pour empêcher que cela se produise en dehors de se laver les mains souvent et de les garder propres et sèches. Certaines personnes utilisent la poudre, comme la poudre pour bébés, sur leur main de pont et sur la queue. Une petite quantité de poudre qui a été soigneusement frotté à votre main est ok – il rend votre peau plus douce, mais la poudre ne doit jamais être utilisé comme un lubrifiant. Lave t'es mains! La poudre fera votre arbre de queue de billard pour gommer plus rapidement, et la poudre ruine le feutre sur la table de billard. Rien ne semble pire ou joue pire que le vert propre feutre avec la poudre de bébé blanc partout, parce que certains idiot pensaient qu'ils avaient à la poudre de vidage sur eux-mêmes afin de tirer mieux! Ce n'est tout simplement pas – alors ne le faites pas. Il est mauvais pour votre cue et mauvais pour la table. Un peu de respect, hein?

L'essuyage de l'axe de votre piscine cue vers le bas avec un chiffon doux au cours du jeu va limiter la quantité de crud qui s'accumule sur elle. Ne pas manger ou boire avec votre main de pont est une bonne habitude d'obtenir dedans aussi bien. L'utilisation d'un tampon de brunissage très léger est parfois une bonne idée. Dans le temps cependant, les pores dans le bois de l'arbre sera complètement bourré plein de saleté et d'huiles et il faudra un nettoyage en profondeur. Je vais vous dire comment je le fais, il suffit de se rappeler que si vous visser vous pourriez gâcher votre cue. Pour toujours. La première étape consiste à essuyer complètement l'arbre (pas la virole) avec un chiffon doux et un peu d'alcool à friction. Vous ne voulez pas tremper le bois avec lui, utilisez juste assez pour nettoyer le bois. Continuez à essuyer avec de l'alcool jusqu'à ce que vous ne voyez pas de saleté sur le chiffon. L'alcool élimine la saleté et l'huile du bois et ouvre les pores du bois. Maintenant, vous voulez juste laisser reposer et sécher pendant plusieurs heures. Maintenant il est temps pour la cire! C'est vrai, j'ai dit cire. Vous devez utiliser 100% de cire de carnauba pour cela. Comme la cire d'une voiture, appliquer une couche de cire avec un chiffon doux ou un applicateur et laissez-le sécher à une brume. La cire de voiture est fine, tant qu'elle est 100% cire de carnauba

Vous ne pouvez pas laisser sécher trop longtemps, juste laissez-le s'asseoir un certain temps et avoir un peu de patience. Une fois que la cire a séché complètement, vous aurez envie de l'essuyer – et immédiatement commencer à travailler l'arbre avec un tampon de brunissage en cuir (ou un morceau de cuir épais simple si vous n'avez pas un brunissoir – ce que vous devriez avoir de toute façon). Enveloppez le cuir autour de l'arbre et le stoke vers le haut et le bas aussi vite que vous pouvez (oui, il semble sale). Plus vous frottez et plus vite vous frottez le plus chaud de la cire deviendra, ce qui lui permet de travailler dans les pores du bois. Lorsque vous aurez terminé, vous aurez de nouveau un bel arbre lisse, mais vous n'êtes pas encore fini! Vous aurez besoin de parcourir toutes les étapes à nouveau, sauf pour la partie d'alcool. Appliquer plus de cire, laissez-le sécher, frottez le diable hors de lui, répétez jusqu'à ce que vous avez au moins 3-4 couches de cire complètement travaillé dans le bois.

LE BUTT. Le bout de votre queue de billard ne devrait pas nécessiter beaucoup d'entretien du tout. Gardez-le propre et essuyez-le avec un chiffon doux pendant et après le jeu. Ne pas frapper les choses avec elle et ne pas le laisser tomber (ou le jeter) sur le sol. Les joints se desserreront, le bois se fissurera et les pièces se sépareront si vous le faites.

"Dings" dans l'Arbre. Rien n'est plus ennuyeux que de travailler votre queue de billard à travers votre pont et se sentant peu «dings» dans le bois. Aussi dur que nous essayons de prendre soin de nos indicateurs de la piscine ces petites bosses semblent toujours apparaître – comme par magie. Voici une méthode que j'ai appris qui éliminera les petites imperfections de l'arbre de votre bâton de piscine. Tout d'abord, vous devez essuyer l'arbre vers le bas avec l'alcool à friction comme dans le paragraphe sur le nettoyage de l'arbre. Cela ouvrira les pores du bois. Ensuite, trouver un endroit où vous pouvez placer l'arbre où il ne roule pas, et où il ne sera pas se heurter. Poser l'arbre (horizontalement) vers le bas avec les dings que vous souhaitez supprimer face vers le haut. Maintenant, trempez un très petit morceau de tissu avec de l'eau et le rouler dans une boule (pensez spitball miniature) et placez la boule de tissu directement sur le point indenté sur l'arbre. Il est important que la boule de tissu ne soit pas plus grande que l'empreinte réelle sur l'arbre. Laisser ce ensemble jusqu'à ce qu'il sèche complètement – ce qui se passe est que le bois dans cette zone minuscule absorbe l'eau des tissus et gonfle, ce qui porte ce spot au niveau du bois environnant. Dans un monde parfait, le "ding" aura disparu, mais ce qui arrive habituellement est que le "ding" devient un petit "bosse" – ce qui est très bien parce que les bosses peuvent être élaborées avec un tampon de polissage assez facilement. Une fois que vous avez tous vos «dings» à niveau ou légèrement au-dessus du niveau, il est temps de cire de l'arbre. Suivez les instructions ci-dessus pour la méthode appropriée pour ce faire. Bien sûr, une autre façon d'enlever dings et dents de votre cue pool serait de le prendre à un professionnel, mais où est le plaisir dans ce?

NE JAMAIS UTILISER ABRASIVES. Déjà. Période. Cela signifie pas de papier de verre, pas de tampons à récurer, pas de papier humide / sec, rien. Si elle a été conçue pour enlever le bois que le garder loin de votre cue de piscine! Vous ne voulez jamais enlever une couche de bois juste pour le rendre lisse – vous voulez nettoyer le bois existant pour maintenir la forme, l'équilibre et la sensation de la queue.

Votre queue de billard représente un investissement de votre part , Donc le garder propre et en bon état le fera durer toute une vie – maintenant c'est beaucoup de jeu de piscine!



Source by Steve Didier

Newborn Baby Care, Guard Against Brain Damage, Support Baby’s Head

I want to emphasize how important it is to support the head of any baby by lifting them and wearing them because they do not need to be able to support the baby's head. Is not well known how much damage can be inflicted unintentionally on tiny and helpless infants.

I believe every mother of a newborn baby is given this advice as soon as she moves to raise her baby. "Support his head". All mothers realize that for the baby they have to do it but the danger is that not everyone in the family takes this advice into account and it is not only uncomfortable for The baby not born – is very dangerous

We would deliberately risk the health of a baby, but many people do not know that it is not only about The comfort of the baby, it is possible – and very likely – brain damage, which can be light or devastating

The zone, or weakness, in a baby is the point where the brain meets the marrow Spinal cord. A rocking motion with unsupported head can cause damage to the part of the spinal cord that controls breathing.

Thus, a child born completely healthy can be injured in this way without anyone noticing. This results in brain damage to some extent and a more difficult life for the child from there.

Obviously, colic babies are at additional risk because they need a lot more lifting and transport, usually by a parent who is exhausted and exasperated

Have examined the brain of children who were thought to have been killed by violent jolts have discovered that even a slight jolt can cause damage to the nerve fibers that control breathing. The lack of oxygen causes the brain to swell and can easily cause some degree of brain damage or even death.

When we talk about people damaged by the brain, I suppose most of us think of brain damage to an extreme degree, but doesn

Indeed it Can be low enough to affect only the child's intelligence, reaction speed, coordination or whatever the brain is wonderfully designed to control, but even this kind of damage is bound to make a Great difference to the quality of life that the child would then lead.

The approximate play with a baby before it can even crawl is extremely dangerous and everyone who is likely to be involved in the care of a new baby should be put on Current of this.

I find this very disturbing because over and over, during my own life, I have been forced to take care to always support the newborn's head by walking with baby in the arms. Seen the people lifting a baby without supporting the head and quickly said "support his head" and I think of the thousands of babies who had no one there to help them with this extremely important advice.

We need warnings and advice on supporting a baby's head printed on diaper bundles and baby formula, as well as warnings about the dangers to Health are printed on packets of cigarettes and tobacco

Adults make their own choices about taking risk with their health or are addicted and therefore do not heed warnings, but babies Depend entirely on their caregivers. In my opinion it is very important that all caregivers,

It is much easier to remember and to comply with a rule if we know the reason for this rule.



Source by Anne V Agar

Care of Wild Baby Mice

If for some reason wild baby mice have been placed in your care, I have included a few tips on caring and feeding to help you give them a chance at life. Please be aware that even in the wild, mice have a 50% chance of surviving beyond 5 months of age, given a normal upbringing. The mice that do make it can live up to around 5 years if healthy. A pair will have a better chance of survival than a lone mouse.

As soon as you have your baby mice, it is important to keep them safe and warm. You can use a small pet carrier, large plastic tub or any other suitable box in which you can put them. Layer the bottom with a towel and place the mice on top. Then, use another soft material to lightly cover the mice like fleece. Place the box in a warm place, ensuring that it isn’t hot; otherwise the mice will become dehydrated. A heater on the lowest setting may be all that is needed. Test the towel the mice are laying on so that it feels cosy and warm to your hand.

If the baby mice are less than 14 days old they will need dropper fed with a milk substitute until they are weaned. They usually open their eyes when they are just about weaned and able to eat by themselves. You will need to feed them every 2 hours so be prepared to get up during the night. Set your alarm. When I was looking after wild mice, I was getting up every 2 hours to check them. I have since read that during the night mother mouse would be away looking for food and may only return to the nest once to feed her babies. Use common sense, if you can manage a few night feeds, all the best for the babies chance of survival, especially in the early days.

Kitten milk is available to buy at pet shops. I used raw coconut blended up and strained. It should be 1 cup coconut to about 2 and ½ cups water. You could also use soaked almonds to make an almond milk using the same ratios. Make sure the nuts are natural and plain. Once you’ve made up the milk, store in a sterilised glass jar and keep in the fridge until required. When you go to feed the mice, take a quarter a cup of the milk and warm it up by pouring it in a small jug and standing in hot water. Use a dropper or baby syringe (you can get these at the chemist) to feed 1 or 2 drops of the milk at a time into the baby mouse mouth. When the mice are really young, they might not open their mouth. Be careful not to get the milk up their noses, they will splutter/cough if you do. It can be dangerous for their health if you do. The way I fed the mice was to put a facecloth down on a table and to put one mouse at a time onto it. Then you can gently hold the baby’s head whilst you administer the milk with the dropper. You’ll get the hang of it with a bit of practise. The baby might not seem to be taking much milk, don’t worry. Very young babies may only need to get a drop or 2 on their mouth/tongues until they can take more. The main purpose here is to keep them hydrated with a little drop at a time every couple of hours.

Once the baby is fed, you need to stimulate a bowel movement. To do this, put some warm water in a small bowl and dip a cotton bud into it. Then, put the cotton bud between the baby’s back legs and gently turn the bud around. You should see a little brown staining, that is their poo. Dip the other end of the bud into the water and gently stroke the baby’s body, this emulates the mother licking them. After all that, tuck baby up in it’s soft bedding and place in a warm spot. This is the basic routine that needs to be repeated every couple of hours during the day and at least 2-3 times during the night, especially around 1am and 5am.

As you can see, it’s quite a commitment, looking after baby wild mice. But, there is also a great reward in the caring of them and the bonding you will feel as a carer.

When the babies start to open their eyes or at least take a peak, they may be taking a lot more milk and starting to walk around a little. This is when you need to be extra careful; one fall is enough to be fatal. You can make a little safe roaming area in the bottom part of a pet cage or shoebox/basin. Line it with newspaper and leaves to simulate a natural environment. The youngsters will enjoy stretching their legs and taking their first steps. This is important, as it will build up their muscles and strength.

Once the babies start to bite your fingers quite firmly when you feed them, they may be ready for a little solid food. They will also be starting to open their eyes (12-14 days old) Start very slowly with this. Try some baby fruit puree to start or natural rice pudding. The food should not be chilled. Let them lick it off your finger. Avoid putting the purees onto a dish for the mice to feed from, as they might get messy and end up with matted fur, which needs to be avoided. Some other foods to graduate to are porridge, banana, tomato, dried oat flakes, strawberry. Just go real easy with the food and keep it simple and easily digested to start with. Congratulations! You’ve actually made it to the weaning stage, which is quite something with wild baby mice.

Continue to provide a safe space for the mice to sleep and once weaned, they will be able to come out at night to feed. Give them a little dish near their bed so they can feed during the night. At least you can get some sleep now! Continue to offer the milk during the day and provide some water for them. Usually, wild mice will still have some mothers milk up to about 4 weeks of age.

Now you have to decide whether to keep them or release into the wild. I don’t know how many mice have been successfully hand-reared and released into the wild. I would think it unlikely that they can survive. However, you’ve done your bit and if they seem strong and healthy and quite active, it might be possible to release them. Or, you can keep them as pets.

Finally, if you did your best and the mice died, don’t feel bad. Survival chances in the best of conditions i.e. with their natural mother are still low. Just enjoy the experience you’ve had with them and the opportunity to get a glimpse into their little lives. They are little bundles of love and it is wonderful to have at least given them some love when otherwise they might have perished.



Source by Anabrese Neuman

Baby Care – Reasons For Getting a Diaper Changed ASAP

If you are a new parent, you’re probably very aware of the fact that babies go to the bathroom 8 to 10 times a day. Don’t wait to change your baby’s diaper. Do it immediately in order to avoid terrible consequences. If you just can’t get yourself to change that diaper, read these important reasons before waiting another second.

  • It smells. If you have company, keeping your baby unchanged is a terrible idea. Your guests will cringe, and you won’t be shown in a good light to other parents. Moreover, the smell is not exactly the type that you or the people around you will enjoy so it should make you clean your baby’s diaper, too.
  • By changing the diaper, you’re preventing diaper rash. Diaper rash is not fun. Your baby’s tender skin will get irritated, painful and it will cause a lot of discomfort. It will not only leave your child looking terrible but it will also affect your baby’s disposition. The best way to avoid diaper rash is to keep that area clean, dry, and cool. Soiled diapers don’t do that.
  • Unchanged diapers can cause infection. Yes, babies can get dangerous infections if a soiled diaper stays on for too long. There have even been cases of staph infections from dirty diapers. Do you really want to risk your baby’s health that way?
  • Dirty diapers will make your baby cranky. Considering how little peace and quiet moms get, do you really want to get even less by letting your baby scream while wearing a soiled diaper? Most babies get in a very foul mood when stuck in dirty diapers for long periods of time.
  • A filled diaper is much more likely to fall off than a clean one…Dirty diapers have a bigger load in them. They can fall off a baby who is crawling. The contents of the diaper can also spill onto cribs, blankets, carpets, or clothes. Keeping your baby’s diaper clean will make sure that your home stays as spotless as possible.
  • Because you have to. If you don’t change the diaper, no one else will. It has to be done, you might as well do it as soon as possible and get it over with. If you don’t it’s not going to go away on its own and it will be there to remind you of itself in more ways than one.

The bottom line is that you’re going to have to change that diaper. You might as well get it out of the way ASAP, so you won’t have to deal with any of the bad side effects of a filled dirty diaper that has been left on for too long.



Source by Valentina Kaltchev